I came across a vintage baby carrier on ebay called the Maral which led me to discover an interesting bit of babywearing history.  This carrier was patented in the 1969 in New Zealand and was part of a revival of interest in babywearing that occured in the late 1960's. Baby carriers were especially popular among Le Leche League members. 

Marilyn Campbell in 1969 ran Maral with her husband Alistair and also organised the first formal La Leche League meeting in upper Hutt. 

Diane Hildreth "Yes Maral. When I was with Parents Centre Upper Hutt we promoted them in our magazines. I had one for my son Iain when he was a baby. They were fantastic. You could wear them back and front, adjust the straps and they provided head support which others on the market did not. I could do the veges for tea, vacuum, do the washing, all while I had in safely close to me." (Facebook comment from You know you grew up in Upper Hutt, Zealand when you remember.........' on the 29/30 September 2017

Christine Oliver "All of my 4 babies were carried in a bright yellow one of these in the 1980s. I offered to sell them in Perth WA as I had so many queries about where to purchase but Marilyn was content to keep the business small and local." (Facebook comment Upper Hutt Heritage Facebook page on the 29/30 September

Photo by Wilfred Revelle Jackson 1970

Photo by  Revelle Jackson 1970

Maral baby carrier back and front view.

A different baby carrier from the same era from the Upper Hutt City Library Heritage Collections.  There is not much information about this one,  possibly handmade.

Some parents made their own carriers, the Le Leche League offered a pattern (printed in their magazine)
​https://dunedinbabywearinglibrary.files.wordpress.com/2012/09/may-tielllphoto.jpg

Do you have any memories of the Maral baby carriers or of babywearing in the 1960's or 1970's in New Zealand?

Sources:
https://dunedinbabywearinglibrary.wordpress.com/background
This is a comprehensive article covering the history of babywearing in New Zealand.
https://uhcl.recollect.co.nz/nodes/view/21615
https://uhcl.recollect.co.nz/nodes/view/2273?keywords=marilyn%20cambpell&type=all&highlights=WyJtYXJpbHluIiwiY2FtcGJlbGwiXQ==&lsk=0d1c146c0e7a22f218341709c97a0a8c
​​https://uhcl.recollect.co.nz/nodes/view/9425?keywords=campbell%20baby%20carrier&highlights=eyIwIjoiY2FtcGJlbGwiLCIxIjoiYmFieSIsIjIiOiJjYXJyaWVyLiIsIjQiOiJjYXJyaWVycyIsIjEyIjoiY2FycmllciJ9&lsk=6a7a7743138d923d210d814d8a2f7f53

Some vintage baby carriers from the past 100 years or so.  These baby carriers were not as common and not always as ergonomic as the carriers in use today but there were certainly quite a variety! There were rigid structured carriers , improvised carriers, tandem carriers, hip seats, and soft structured carriers.

I came across lots of photos of carriers which look like little chairs and one which looks a little like a traditional cradleboard.  Wearing baby on the back facing out seemed quite popular! Framed back packs were around too (at least from the 1960's).
​

Baby carrier 1945

Some caregivers didn't even use a baby carrier just improvised with what they had - for example just popping baby in their bag or back pack. ​

Improvised baby carrier - 1926

Some carriers needed two people to use and some were not worn on the parent's body at all.

Welsh Family waiting for visiting King George V 1935 

Cradleseat hip carrier (manufactured in London)

Christmas shopping - December 1968  

Hip seat pattern 1970's

Bild-It-Yourself Club hip seat pattern.

Narrow based carrier.

 The Snugli was invented by an American nurse, patented in 1969.   It had padded adjustable shoulder straps, a waist band and an internal infant harness and could also be used for older babies without using the harness.  There are some great detailed pictures in this link here https://www.etsy.com/au/listing/599372091/vintage-soft-blue-cotton-corduroy-snugli?show_sold_out_detail=1

Nursing Mother's meh tai 1960's

Sewing magazines and books also obsessionally offered DIY baby carrier patterns - some look quite comfortable like this meh dai like pattern from 1977. 
​

​Do you have any vintage baby carrier photos to share.  I would love to see!

Sources for images in this article can be found here - https://www.pinterest.com.au/hipababy/babywearing-history/

How to add embelisments, accents and pockets to your ring sling . This article was originally published by me as a pdf.  You can find the pdf and other DIY patterns on my DIY page.  Don't have time to sew?  Custom orders are available.  Please contact me for details.

Your ring sling doesn't need to be boring. Adding bling to your ring sling is easy! Some of these ideas can be sewn straight on top of the tail or a plain ready made sling and others require you to sew the accent on before you sew in the rings.

​Adding ribbon, beaded trim, or braid is the simplest way to decorate your sling.  You can create some great effects with ribbon or beaded trim.  You can also sew a ribbon to the bottom or top of a fabric accent.

​​I generally don’t do accents longer than 42cm from the bottom edge of the tail so the accent won’t get caught in the rings if being shared by more than one wearer and the pocket (if you have one) is useable. The pocket will gape open if it is too close to the rings so take this into account when deciding what length of sling to make or the length of the accent. 30cm is a good accent height. You can leave a gap between the bottom of the accent and the bottom edge of the sling for a nice contrast or sew the accent right to the bottom edge. 
 
Fabric Needed:  width of finished sling + 2.5cm x (length of accent + 4cm (for pressing and hemming).

Sewing Instructions
 
1/ Hem the top edge of your accent then turn and press bottom edge under 12mm.  The edge of the accent can be right on the bottom edge of the sling or you can place it 5-10cm from the edge. If you don’t want a pocket in your accent you don’t need to hem the top edge, simply press the top edge under by 12mm.
2/ Press the two short edges under by 12mm.
3/ Pin the accent on the wrong side of the sling (the side with the seam at the rings showing and the side of the tail with the neat side of the hem), so when the sling is threaded the accent will end up on the right side.  Sew the sides and bottom edge of the accent to the sling.
4/ Sew the top closed to complete your accent or follow the directions below to make a hidden pocket.
​

​Length of material needed 74cm x 84cm (or double the width of accent you want plus 2.5cm seam allowance added).
 
Sewing Instructions
1/ Put your sling on and decide where you would like the top of the accent to fall.  No higher than around 18cm from the rings is a good guide, to prevent the accent being caught in the rings when making adjustments.
2/ Fold one long edge of the accent under 12mm.  Pin on the edge of the sling or further up covering some of the tail (it depends on the finished length you would like, how you want the accent to sit and if you want to cut off any of the tail before sewing). Sew this edge to the sling.
3/ Fold the accent in half wrong sides together and pin the short edge on the tail, following your previous stitching line.  Carefully pin the short sides together, then sew the two short edges from top to bottom.  You can also topstitch along the bottom of the accent for a neater finish.

​I think a very long lace overlay looks great on the tail of a sling but you can use a shorter length for a less dramatic effect.  See information about accents above to decide on the length, just add some extra length if you want a tail overhang.
 
For the sling below which has a very long accent you will need about a metre of fabric which will overlap the end by about 25 – 35cm. After you have made up your sling, cut your lace to size and hem the end and sides, then iron the top edge over by 12mm or if it has a neat selvedge you can just leave it.  Pin the lace in place and sew to the sling along the top and sides..

This method gives a neat finish on a double layer sling. Decide how long you would like the accent to be then subtract the same amount of length from the side you want the accent to show on.  Don’t forget to add 12mm seam allowance to your solid colour and accent fabric.
 
Begin with two the long pieces of your sling fabric. Sew the accent to your short solid colour piece, right sides together, turn right side out and iron. Sew the two sides of the sling using the reversible sling directions found in the Hipababy Ring Sling Pattern (see my DIY page). Find the turning hole and iron the seam allowance inwards. Topstitch. You are now ready to sew in the rings.

​The flap of this pocket is handy to ensure nothing can fall out of your pocket and if you place the pocket on the sling edge you can fold the whole sling up and tuck it up into the pocket for handy storage.  You can use these directions to make a simple patch pocket and it is easy to alter the size of the pocket to suit you.  The dimensions given below are for a small pocket, with the finished size of 23cm x 23cm. I use a 6mm seam allowance for the pocket flap and 12mm for the rest of the pocket
 
Cut your material to these dimensions – 25.5cm x 25.5cm
Cut the pocket flap 25.5cm x 18cm
 
1/ Hem the top edge of the pocket and press the sides under. Sew a strip of Velcro to the top edge of the pocket (right side). You can sew Velcro along the whole top edge or put a small strip in the middle or two small strips on either side. For a pocket with no flap sew the Velcro to the wrong side of the pocket.  Sew to pocket to the sling. Move the top of the pocket out of the way a little to sew the opposite strip of Velcro to the sling.
2/ Right sides together fold the flap in half and sew around all edges (6mm seam allowance), leaving a hole for turning.
3/ Turn the pocket flap right side out, press and then pin and sew three edges to the top of your patch pocket.  The flap will overlap the top edge of the pocket - by how much is your choice.

​Using a fat quarter you can make a pocket and a border.  You will need to piece the border together so choose a design which will lend itself to this.
 
For the pocket you will need:
32.5cm x30cm (finished size 30cm (wide) by 27cm tall)
For the border on the opposite side you will need: 7cm x width of sling, plus 2.5cm seam allowance.
 
To make the pocket:
1/ Hem the top edge with a 12mm rolled hem.
2/ Press under 12mm on the remaining sides.
3/ Sew two pieces of Velcro to the pocket top (on the wrong side).
4/ Lay the pocket on the sling where you would like to place it. Note where the opposite pieces of Velcro should go. Sew these to the sling.
5/ Sew the pocket to the sling making sure the Velcro pieces match up.
6/ Sew two strips of fabric (right sides together) with a 12mm seam to form a long strip, matching the design.  Press the strip and then press all edges under by 6mm. Sew to the bottom of the sling.
 

This pattern includes adjustable pouch with curved seam, non-adjustable pouch, ring sling with optional pocket in the tail and ideas for embellishments, and a mei tai/meh dai).  Don't have time to make your own?Buckle doll carriers are available to purchase in my shop. 

Need any help or want to show off your creations? Join my Facebook chatter group here https://www.facebook.com/groups/1374361185941904/

• The pouches and slings can be made in three sizes, which I based on measuring my 3 children, toddler (18 months), preschooler, (4 years), primary schooler (8 years).  The preschooler size will fit most young children.  Instructions are included on how to measure your child for a more individualized fit.
• You can make the pouches and sling in two widths.  The smaller width is suitable for small dolls (and great to use up narrow scraps of fabric), but the wider is fine too and easier for small children to use. 
• The pouches and slings are miniature versions of Mum’s but because it doesn’t have to be weight bearing, have fun with your fabrics! You can use any type of fabric but very thin, slippery or stretchy fabrics may not work as well.
• Hems – rolled hem- fold and press 12mm , fold over again and sew.
• Seams – 12mm
• To make your sling or pouch reversible cut two pieces in your contrasting fabrics, sew fabrics together leaving a space for turning.  Turn right side out and slipstitch opening closed or topstitch if desired.  Sew the sling or pouch as instructed, no need to hem.

Non-adjustable Pouch 

Material needed –toddler                43cm x 89cm
                                       - preschooler      43cm x 101.5cm
                                       - primary schooler  43cm x 112cm
 
For a narrower width pouch suitable for small dolls only - cut to a 35.5cm width
 
For a pouch that will fit your child exactly, measure your child from the edge of their shoulder to the outside edge of their hip.  Double this measurement and add 10cm.  Add a few inches to this to allow for growth if desired.

​1/  Fold material in half widthwise and lengthwise.  Measure 5cm from the top end, then measure 4cm along the short open end – draw a gentle cure between these points.
 

2/  Open out the material.  There should be a gentle curve or ‘smile’, on both ends.  Right sides together sew the ‘smiles’ together.  You can finish your sling now or sew a French seam (an enclosed seam) for a neater finish but it is not necessary unless you are making a reversible pouch.
3/  To make a French seam.  After sewing the ‘smiles’ together, fold the seam over so the raw edge is enclosed and sew.  This will leave an enclosed flap of material sticking out, sew this down to the sling carefully.
4/  Fold pouch in half lengthwise, creating a loop of fabric with one open side, this is where the doll will sit.  You’re done!
  
Adjustable Pouch 
​
This pouch will fit a child across all the size ranges given so you don’t need to make a new pouch as your child grows.  If you wish to make it longer (i.e. to fit an older primary schooler) add more to the length and add more strips of Velcro spacing them as per the instructions below.  You will need 45cm of 15mm wide Velcro for the basic pouch.
 
Cut material to 43cm x 122cm, then follow steps 1-4 above. 
 
1/ Cut across the top of the pouch where it is folded, opposite the curved seam.
2/ Turn the sling inside out and right sides together sew across each open end.  Turn right side out.  Your sling will look like this:
 

​3/  You are now ready to add Velcro.  Cut 3 strips, 15cm each.  Sew the Velcro to the end of the sling 12mm from the top and 1.5 cm from the folded end.  Sew the Velcro to one layer of the pouch only, open out the pouch as you sew.  This will give you a neater finish. 

Sew the velcro strips to the sling 4cm apart.  Repeat on the other edge of the sling making sure you sew on the correct side so the velcro will overlap when the sling is worn.
 
Cutting down and unused adult sized pouch to fit a child
 
1/ Turn the edges of the pouch under 4 cm and sew
2/ Use the above measurements from the doll pouch pattern, or adjustable pouch pattern or measure your child as described.
3/ Open out the sling so there is two layers only with the wrong side facing out.  Measure out the size needed and pin or tack the sling along the top flat folded edge. 
4/  Try the sling on your child.  If it is correct sew across the top edge.  You can cut off the excess fabric or when you turn the sling right side out, tuck the flap or extra material created underneath (or sew it down).  You can let out this seam as your child grows.

​The wider width sling is on the left.  Both have pockets (the one on the right going across the whole width) and were made using child sized plastic bracelets for the rings. (note: the bracelets broke after a few years of light use so for a longer lasting sling you may want to use aluminum sling rings)


 
 
Fabric needed:  35.5cm width for small dolls and 51cm for larger dolls.
Length
- 130cm for toddler
- 141.5cm  for preschooler
- 152.5cm for older child
or alternatively drape a tape measure completely around your child’s body (shoulder to hip and let the edge of the tape hand down to where you want the tail to end, and use this measurement).  You can also make the sling a longer length than you think you will need, then try the sling on your child, then cut and hem to the correct length.  (note: a tail longer than your child’s knees may be a tripping hazard).
 
Sling Rings – Use child sized plastic bracelets (the ones I used were 5.5cm in diameter).  You can also buy thin metal rings around this size from craft shops or alternatively you can purchase small size sling rings from slingrings.com which come in a great range of colours.
 
1/ Hem the long edges or your fabric.
2/ Fold and press one short edge down 12mm (not necessary for a reversible sling)
3/ Fold the sling in half lengthwise.  This will create a pouch like pocket for the doll to lie in.  The sling can be used on both shoulders but to switch shoulders you will need to rethread it so the open sides of the ‘pocket’ are towards your child’s neck.
4/ Measure and mark (15cm) across the top short edge.
5/ Gather the top edge in your hands and thread through the center of both rings.  Pull the material through until you reach the measurement you marked earlier, then pin and sew along this line.

6/.  You will now have a long piece of fabric with rings on the end.  Thread the sling by gathering the short straight end, then threading it over one ring and under the other like a belt buckle.
7/ Try the sling on your child.  Cut and hem to the desired length.  Tip: One sling I made was too short so I sewed a contrasting fabric to the end of the sling (hemmed), using twice as much length as I needed.  Then I folded it up and sewed the edges together, leaving the top open, to make a pocket.
 
Decorating your Sling/Adding Pockets
Some ideas:

• Sew a ribbon along the bottom edge
• Sew a strip of contrasting material along the length of the sling to make a tail accent (check out quilting fabrics for some beautiful prints).  To do this measure the width of the tail, add 2.5cm, then turn and press all edges 12mm.  Try a length of 23cm.  A fabric accent may make the tail too thick to pull through the rings, so it’s best o thread the sling and pin the accent on, then see how it fits on your child, before deciding on the length of your accent/pocket.
• For a pocket follow the steps above, hemming one short edge.  Attach the fabric as described but leave the top hemmed edge open.  You can add Velcro to the top to stop your child’s treasures falling out.  If you have made the wider sling, you can make the pocket smaller by dividing the accent in thirds, and only leaving the middle section open at the top.

 

This carrier will fit a larger rag doll/teddy to a small doll.  A small doll may look lost in the carrier, if so, roll up the bottom the carrier to make it shorter before putting the carrier on and fold down the curved top if desired.  Putting the doll inside the carrier with ‘legs in’ will also help.

   
​Material Needed:  Body – 26cm x 41cm
                                         Shoulder Straps (cut 2) – (Length) Toddler –106.5cm
                                                                                                                    Preschooler –119.5cm
                                                                                                                     Older Child – (140cm-150cm)
                                          Waist Straps (cut 2) - 67.5cm
                                                                                               (width) –thin straps- 8cm
                                                                                                                   wide straps- 15cm
 
Cut one body piece from fashion fabric, and one body piece and the four straps from a coordinating colour.
 
If you wish you can make the shoulder straps 150cm long, then cut and hem the end of the straps after trying it on your child or just keep this length and wrap the excess around the carrier a few times before tying.  This length will fit your child as they grow. The straps are designed to be long enough to fit over a large teddy bear, be crossed over your child’s back then brought around to the front to be tied in a bow in the middle of the carrier (which helps to keep the doll from falling out) or crossed again and tied in the back (see above for picture).  If you prefer a knot rather than a bow (or a different tying method) you can get away with a shorter strap length.  See below for more wearing/tying instructions.
           
1/ Cut out the body and straps.  Place the two body pieces together.  Measure 5cm from the top of the body on either side and cut a gentle curve across these points so it looks like the top of a tombstone.
 
 

:2/ Fold straps in half lengthwise.  Sew, leaving a gap for turning.  Turn and press straps.  Topstitch if desired, it’s not necessary but will give a more professional finish.
3/ On the wrong side of one body piece pin the waist straps on the bottom edge of the carrier body 12mm from the edge, just above seam allowance, and about 2.5cm deep.  Sew around the edges of the straps to secure them to the body.
3/ Place the shoulder straps on the top edge of the carrier body, before the start of the curve (see diagram below).  Pin the shoulder straps at around a 45 degree angle.  It is not really necessary to measure the exact angle but do make sure after you pin one strap you fold the carrier in half and make sure the other strap is pinned in the same place/angle.
4/ Right sides together sew the remaining body piece to the body piece you have attached the straps to.  Don’t sew over straps and leave a space for turning on the bottom edge.  Turn and press under seam allowance at the straps, then topstitch around the entire carrier body to enclose strap and turning hole.
 

Wearing Instructions
 
Front carry: Tie waist strap, the plain coloured side of the carrier hanging down like an apron.  Place doll in front of you and bring the body of the carrier over the doll. 
Toss straps over your shoulders, cross them across your back, and bring them back around to the front.  Tie in front across the middle of the carrier (recommended), or under (or over) the dolls legs.
 
Back carry: As above just start with the carrier around your back instead of in front.  Variation: instead of crossing the straps across your chest bring them back under your arms like a backpack strap, then tie in the back, or twist the straps and bring the straps back around to the front again and tie at your waist.

These patterns use a 6mm seam 

Ring Sling
​
​A thin fabric, like poplin or voile, will pass through the rings more easily.  I use 15mm split rings (look in the jewelry/beading section of your local craft shop).  A slightly larger size should also work, especially if you choose a thicker fabric.  

​1/ Cut one piece of material 38cm x 11.5cm
2/ Hem all edges.
3/ Gather one short edge together with your hands and thread it through both rings.  Pull the end through about 3cm, then fold it over and sew.  You will now have a long piece with rings on the end.  Thread the sling by gathering the straight end, then threading it over one ring and under the other like a belt buckle.
 
Adding a Pocket
1/Cut a piece of fabric 6.5cm x 6cm.  Hem the top edge and turn all other edges under and press. 
2/ Sew the pocket to the sling.

Adding a Fabric Accent or other decoration

​1/ Cut one piece of contrasting fabric – 6.5cm x 10cm
2/ Press all edges under 6mm, then topstitch to the sling.
 
Other decorating ideas
 * Sew a ribbon or decorative braid to the bottom edge
* Hem the top edge of the accent piece to make a large pocket.
* Add an iron on embellishment.
 
Pouch
​
1/ Cut one piece of fabric 21cm x 11.5cm
2/ Hem the long edges
3/ Right sides together sew the short edges together, then sew over the raw edge with a zig zag stitch to enclose it.
4/ Fold the pouch in half lengthwise so you have a tube with one end open and one folded.
Note: Bratz type dolls have a thinner body.  You can make the sling around 2cm shorter for a snugger fit, depending on what size ‘baby’ the Bratz doll will be wearing in her sling.

Mei Tai
​
Fabric Needed
Body- 2 pieces 8.5cm x 9.5cm
Straps – 1m length of ribbon, around 1.5cm in width. Cut into two shoulder straps 26.5cm long and 2 waist straps 23.5cm long
1/ On the wrong side of one body piece (above the seam allowance) pin two ribbons at around a 45 degree angle on the top edge, then on the bottom edge pin the two waist straps on horizontally. Sew.
2/ Place the two body pieces right sides together and pin in place, then sew around the body avoiding the straps and leaving a hole at the bottom for turning.
3/ Turn right sides out and topstitch, closing all holes.
 

​See above for wearing instructions, but in a back carry the straps stay on Barbie’s shoulders better if the straps are crossed high on the doll’s chest.

The Expo.  Lots to see!

The handmade carrier stall.  The orange pfaux pfau pod is mine. :)

My wearee and his big sister.  Their favourite part of the conference was running around the courtyard!

Kangatraining class.  This was really fun.  I thoght my toddler might be too heavy to exercise with him on my back but it was fine. Big sister had fun too.

My presentation on carrier construction.  My toddler was tired so the only was to get my talk finished was to sling and feed him while I spoke!

For those of you intersted in my talk.  Here are the main points and a list of DIY resources too.

Some of the wraps I have dyed - before and after.  I overdyed the Didymos Antara Dragon with ocean blue and the Didmos Puder (Powder Silk) dark pink and then Violet.  I am very happy with both.  I used Dylon for both and used my laundry sink.  It is easy to do - just follow the packet instructions carefully and don't forget to stir!

Cotton, Linen, or Silk?
Cotton woven wrap conversions are excellent for all ages although a heavier gsm can provide more cushiness for a toddler. 

Linen and silk  are also great choices for both babies and toddlers, although linen can get a little diggy for heavy toddlers (but using a heavier weight of linen or a double layer of a thin linen works great). 

Linen is stronger and tougher than cotton, owing to the parallel arrangement of its fibres.  Silk is also a strong natural fibre and is simply beautiful.  Linen and silk are especially good in a double layer or an extra wide width.  I found single layer slings in linen or linen blend (regular width) supportive for my toddler until she was around two. If you choose this style you will get a lot of use out of it. A double layer of silk is probably one of the most supportive fabric combinations although some people find them hot at the height of summer.

Hot Weather?
Linen is highly recommended for hot weather babywearing. Linen both absorbs and loses moisture rapidly, and can absorb quite a bit of moisture initially without feeling damp. This helps to keep you and your baby cool.

Fabric Care?
All types of fabric I use are generally easily washable which is very important for anything around babies! Fabric care for cotton and linen blend slings is very easy.  Simply wash on a gentle cycle on cold in a laundry bag and hang to dry.  Linen and blends should only be washed with a liquid detergent. The addition of cotton to linen makes the fabric soft and they are not as prone to wrinkling as pure linen. Pure linen is great though.  It wrinkles fairly easily but is a little more supportive which is a plus.  To counter the wrinkles I iron my sling after every wash and hang on a hook when not in use - which keeps it fairly wrinkle free.  Linen can feel a little stiffer/rougher when brand new but softens quickly with use and washing. The easiest way to care for silk is with spot cleaning (with a damp cloth) and occasional hand washing.  Silk may also be dry cleaned.  Machine washing on a gentle cycle is also possible but the silk will lose some of its sheen.

Wrap Conversions?
And lastly there are wrap conversions.  This fabric is especially woven for babywearing, are generally thicker than other fabrics, and have just the right amount of give, so the fabric feels more cushy on your shoulder.  Wrap conversions are fantastic for heavy babies and toddlers.  There are many choices from cotton to cotton blends and more and are generally easy to care for.

If you would like any other information on the fabrics I use. Please feel free to ask.

I found a great free pattern to add to my Links page.  A tutorial about how to make your own babywearing jacket  I'll add more patterns as I come across them.  What are your favourite DIY links?